After years of cognitive dissonance I’ve finally accepted I’m someone who likes to do some (light) physical activity on holiday. I’m fine to rent accommodation with a steep walk to access it, to swim out to the fin de zone baignade or go for a hike, which is why we ended up back in Cassis for the last week of the summer holidays, where the Calanques in the national park are just magnificent. They’re so stunning I had to go and see them four times, twice by boat and twice on foot, the first time in awe and the second more prepared to enjoy the beauty rather than document it.
Apart from the hikes there’s lots to do in Cassis, which is sunny, relaxed and family friendly. I took great joy in cooking for long family lunches and dinners on the balcony overlooking the Cap Canaille, the kids learnt to play Uno (nothing puts you more in your place than being legitimately beaten by a ruthless four year old) and we made the most of the beach.
A friend with a boat pulled into port and we hopped aboard for an afternoon, cruising to a nearby bay where she impressed us with her bow thrusters and we settled in for lazy dips in the clear water, chasing fish as they nipped past below. They conveniently dropped us back on dry land just in time for ice-cream and the kids haven’t stopped raving about the adventure since.
Wednesday was market day so we headed down early for coffee and people watching. Knowing my brother was picking us up in the car for the return journey I didn’t hold back on fresh melons from Provence, perfectly juicy rotisserie chicken with potatoes glistening in fat, punnets of late season strawberries and a bunch of dahlias I couldn’t resist, even though it felt like the most extravagant thing in the world to buy flowers while staying in a holiday rental. I also bought a slab of nougat big enough for dessert for the eight of us but by mid afternoon I’d accidentally eaten it all so if I can give you one piece of life advice it’s only buy nougat in mini sizes.
For years I’ve been buying an inexpensive piece of art on holidays and our bookshelves are filled with little paintings done on everything from oyster shells to canvas (there’s even a modern version of a gyotaku print done with a raw fish). This time I picked up a small acrylic of Calanque de Port Pin by a charming local artist called Pascale which I’d been eyeing off all week, along with a box of calissons, a local sweet treat made with almonds, candied fruit and lots of sugar. What do you like to get as a souvenir?
On Saturday it was time to head back to base in advance of la rentrée, the collective back to school and work that the French observe the first week of September, so we bundled into the taxi to Marseille, cleaning up just a smidgen of vomit on the way (a nice little surprise from the child who doesn’t get carsick). On the train the countryside sped past at 300km/h as we recapped the week and tried to convince the children to nap. Train travel really is the way to go in France and I’ve long been converted into a discount card holder which usually pays for itself after the first journey.
We lined up with an enthusiastic crowd on Saturday night for steak frites at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte and I know it seems touristy and some people turn their noses up but I love it. Every single time. Quick, tasty, consistent and no need think about anything more than whether you prefer medium or rare. As usual I had the tower of vacherin for dessert which delivered as expected.
On Sunday I took my brother out to the flea market where I quickly fell in love with this Italian glass mirror, which perfectly illustrated what I’d just explained to him about the prices of some of the items. Bless the saleswoman for even talking to me about it and pretending not to notice when I visibly paled as she mentioned it was €35 000. Maybe next time.
Have a great week,
- Emily
Cheese we’re eating this week:
Chavignol Très Sec - a goat’s cheese that’s been aged and dried so it’s almost impossible to cut. Perfect grated or crumbled onto salads.
Bouchons Apéritif - tiny goat’s cheese thimbles of cheese ready for sharing at apéro hour.
Burrata - an Italian cow’s milk cheese, it has an outer layer of mozzarella and is stuffed with stracciatella and cream.
All three cheeses were bought at the local market in Cassis.
Roast Chicken
Someone asked me this week for tips for a perfect roast chicken and I realise I make them so often I don’t give it a thought but there was a time when I found it intimidating. Butter under the skin, turning it half way through, brining, changing the oven temperature after 20 minutes, weighting it and calculating cooking time to the minute, I’ve tried it all and honestly the perfect roast chicken is the one you bother making, which means simple is best. Here’s what I do…
Buy the best chicken you can afford.
Turn the oven to 180°C and while it’s heating chop any veggies you want to roast and scatter them in the bottom of the pan. Rub the skin with a little olive oil and a sprinkle of salt (I use way too much salt but I’ve made my peace with it). Stuff it with a lemon if you have one (slice the sides a few times) and that’s it.
Place it in the oven for about 1 hour & 20 minutes (classic calculation is 20 minutes per 450g + 20 extra minutes but I always find 1 hour & 20 minutes to be spot on, no matter the size).
If you’re worried if it’s cooked slice open the thigh and if the juices run clear you’re good. Also look at the meat and if the fibres look ‘set’ it’s cooked.
Leave it to rest for a few minutes and then carve. We leave the juices in the cooking tray if it’s family style and serve them in a bowl if we are being fancy. Don’t worry about making gravy with them you don’t need to bother.
Bon appétit!
Real Life Paris Photo
This is not a drill. There is a new tourist train in town at the flea market.
L’Entrecote is one of the very best meals in Paris. That salad dressing!
I also buy paintings on holiday too. And dishes and tea towels. I love using every day things from my favorite dreamy places
My mum and I ate at L’Entrecote on our Paris trips and zero shame. On our first visit, they put down a giant glass bowl of chocolate mousse in front of me and I was agog at the size. It was explained that I should take the portion I wanted and it would go on to the next mousse lover. We also did not realize l’addition would include a tip and were putting an American sized one out. The French couple at the next table said, “That’s too much” and instructed us on leaving a few coins.