People Watching
The week passed exactly as I’d hoped on Île de Ré. There was bike riding (the best way to get around the island), reading, writing, sunsets at the beach, hours on the merry-go-round, cooking and a little bit of art. Our rental house was in the heart of Ars-en-Ré, a family friendly village in the centre of the island with a famous black and white bell tower reaching 40 metres high which once served as a navigation beacon for sailors.
At the market alongside the usual produce I also stocked up on salt (you can cycle through the salt marshes), local pottery, a cozy blanket and bags and bags of salted caramel sweets made on the island. While I shopped in peace the children were entertained by Donin, a beloved character who has been singing the same songs at his carousel since 1983 and is a beacon for parents re-living their childhood memories (the people watching is fantastic).
On one morning we cycled with a rather aggressive headwind over to explore nearby la Couarde-sur-Mer where we had lunch and browsed some cute boutiques and on another returned to le Phare des Baleines, one of the highest lighthouses in France, for ice-cream at La Martinière which is famous for the oyster and seaweed flavours (no, I had caramel and vanilla, maybe next year…). The cycle paths are well maintained and it’s so relaxing to cruise along, wildflowers on either side, passing the occasional honking donkey or swan digging for lunch in a stream.
On Friday we journeyed to the end of the island for lunch at La Cabane de la Patache which is set on a quiet beach where you can watch the oyster farmers driving their clunky tractors across the sound while eating. As the tide went out we explored the sand and spent some time following a little hermit crab as he wandered about, before getting sunburnt on the ride home, which being Australian I’m mortified about.
After speaking with a photographer friend recently I was inspired to re-discover cyanotype prints (you lay images on specially treated paper that develops in the sun) which made a great project and we spent the next day collecting interesting leaves, shells, flowers and rocks to make our artworks, laying them out carefully in the sun until the paper changed colour and they were ready to be rinsed. Delighted with the results I immediately returned for more so we could all do it again the next day and it was such easy fun for kids I’ve decided to offer it as an activity option in the Jardin du Luxembourg.
On Saturday morning we packed up and caught the train back to Paris, Noisette functioning as a pillow for our daughter to nap on, and arrived back in town to balmy weather and a happy city. Travelling by train around France is so easy (strikes permitting) and if you book in advance, very affordable, especially if you opt for a travel reduction card, which usually pay for themselves after the first journey.
On Sunday I made up for my week off with two wonderful tours through Saint Germain and the Marais, a spin around a brocante, admin, accounting, cooking, cleaning and all round preparing for the next week of school holidays.
Have a great week,
- Emily
Cheese we’re eating this week:
Triple creme a la truffe noire - a soft-ripened triple cream cheese made from cow’s milk. It has a very creamy texture and a subtle flavour, complimented by the ribbon of truffle running through the centre.
Pont-l'Évêque - apparently named after a pont (bridge) in a small town in Normandy, this rich and creamy cow’s milk is claimed to be the oldest Norman cheese still in production.
Burrata - an Italian cow’s milk cheese, it has an outer layer of mozzarella and is stuffed with stracciatella and cream.
All three cheeses were bought at the market in Ars-en-Ré.
Easy Berry Cake
I made this twice this week, once with strawberries and once with raspberries. Would also work with blueberries, chocolate chips or big dollops of nutella or caramel sauce swirled through.
250g butter
2 cups sugar
1 & 3/4 cups flour (can use gf)
4 eggs
Pinch of salt
Strawberries, raspberries or other topping
Set the oven to 180°C and grease a brownie or cake tin.
Melt the butter in a saucepan. Take off the heat and add the sugar and salt. Stir well.
Add the flour and eggs and mix together.
Pour into your baking tin and scatter the fruit on top, or swirl the caramel or nutella over the surface.
Bake for around 30 minutes (timing will depend on the size of your tin so keep an eye on it from 20 minutes).
Bon appétit!
Real Life Île de Ré Photo
Turns out they keep dried Christmas trees for months outside of Paris too…
Such a charming place! Are there still donkeys in culottes?
Sounds like the perfect getaway. Lovely!😁