Monday was a public holiday in France (May is famous for them) which meant a welcome slow start to the week. School canteen staff were on strike for the remaining four days so all across town parents had to break up their workday to pick up children at 11.30am to entertain and feed them before returning them at 1.30pm. Unfortunately sending packed lunches isn’t an option so we juggled our schedules, all the more thankful for the wonderful school lunches and a full day of supervision when they’re available (you have to take strikes in your stride here, and I’m generally supportive of them as the French way of life is pretty great as a result).
I took an evening stroll under quite dramatic skies from the Left Bank to the Right Bank, through Saint-Germain-des-Prés, across Pont Royal, via the Jardin des Tuileries, the Louvre Courtyard and a wet Palais Royal over to restaurant Maceo for dinner with Pam of Olive & Branch, who had invited me to dinner with a charming group of ladies, about to spend a week together exploring the city. The table was laid with copies of my book for everyone and we came up with the sequel together before we’d even ordered.
I risked everything by daring to buy flowers from both florists at the market, unable to leave these roses but having already ordered peonies at my usual stand. I hid them as best I could but could feel ‘the look’ burning into me as I paid and walked home and know it’s going to take me weeks to get back on an even keel with him again.
Friends visiting gave the perfect excuse to explore a little of the city so on Saturday morning we set off to scale the Pantheon, one of my favourite monuments in Paris, for a 360° view over the rooftops, my husband gently correcting the little architectural tit-bits I’ve been incorrectly parroting off for years as we walked around. The 200 steps were entirely worth it and we even witnessed a few weddings spilling out of the Marie du 5ᵉ arrondissement as we strolled around the panorama.
After a pleasant lunch at Loulou we had just enough time to hustle across town for a peek into the Bibliothèque Nationale de France- Richelieu, where students and researchers were hard at work. I’d like to think if I’d had somewhere this beautiful to study in I might have hit the library more often but you have to know yourself don’t you. The Galerie Mazarin was closed while they swap over some of the treasures housed there but I’ll be back again soon.
Then it was back up above the chimney pots of Paris at the incredibly chic Le Toit de la Tour, on the roof of La Tour d’Argent, for a few drinks and some strawberries and cream. We watched lazy bees and happy butterflies pass by as ice-cubes gently clinked and guests basked in the sunshine. Booking was so easy online, it was pleasantly uncrowded and although it was rather pricey (€19 for a mocktail) staff couldn’t have been nicer and when we asked for Perrier they immediately suggested complimentary sparkling filtered water instead, which I thought was a nice touch.
Sunday was Mother’s Day so started with breakfast in bed professionally cooked up by my teenager, sentimental gifts and Victor Hugo poems perfectly recited by the littles (rote learning is rather popular in the school curriculum). There were bunches of flowers, good coffee and my husband smartly presented me with the exact gift I’d requested, a bright orange tortilla press I’ve never quite justified buying for myself. After swimming and failed naps and a busy day, with the gentle patter of rain outside, the kids helped me roll and press corn tortillas which served as the perfect base for dinner.
Have a great week,
- Emily
Cheese we’re eating this week:
Rocamadour - a very small unpasteurised goats cheese from the southwest of France, great on hot toast or in salads.
Munster - a raw, soft cow’s milk cheese with a washed rind that date’s back to the 7th century when the monks began producing it in the town of Munster.
Crottin de Chavignol - a goat’s cheese from the Loire valley. My daughter prefers a very dry version.
All three cheeses were bought at Fromagerie Saint Vrain at Marché Maubert.
Lamb Neck Stew
Why hadn’t I ever had this before? Such a tasty and affordable cut of meat.
Lamb necks (1.5-2 per person). Ask the butcher to cut them in half for you.
2 shallots
Garlic cloves
1 tin canned tomatoes
Fresh thyme
Olive oil
Salt & pepper
Nicely brown the lamb in a frying pan then add all the other ingredients, turn down the heat and gently simmer for about 2 hours.
You can either serve as is, or if you really like your guests, take the lamb necks out of the stew, remove any bones and fat and return to the sauce.
Serve with rice, over roasted vegetables or just with excellent bread.
Bon appétit!
Real Life Paris Photo
This guy ran up the stairs at Montmartre 3 times before carrying 52kgs up backwards.
I want to see the tortilla press. We have recently started making our own gluten-free tortillas.