On Monday I rose in the constant darkness and caught the bus too Tromsø airport where I panic bought rolls of caramel chocolates before the flight back to Paris. I’ve never been in a plane that had to be de-iced before so that was an experience (like being in the airplane version of a car-wash) and we were soon in the air, grateful to catch a glimpse of the sun for the first time in days.
It was straight back to work with tours, calls and everything in between (including a rather large admin backlog I’ve been happily avoiding) so I negotiated with myself that I couldn't choose our Christmas tree until it was all done. The tactic worked spectacularly well and I rewarded myself with some Festive Math, selecting a plush 3m pine to fit under our 2.7m ceiling. The delivery men were forewarned so came armed with secateurs and after a fraught few minutes she was standing (a little less) tall, so beautiful it doesn't matter we can’t fit the star.
With enough lights to see her from space we hung the decorations with only a few casualties along the way. My husband cannot understand why I buy baubles on our mid-summer holiday (or any other time of year) but pulling them all out and experiencing the memory association is one of my highlights of the year. We got the carols on, dressed the kids in silly sweaters and sat back to admire our handiwork, finishing it off with a sprig of tinsel for the top.
We were invited to a Thanksgiving party which was such a treat and indulged in good chat and seasonal US specialties including devilled eggs, kale salad, cornbread, exceptional chicken (a whole turkey can be a bit of a logistical challenge in Paris, where Thanksgiving isn’t celebrated) and of course pie. We made potential new friends, reconnected with old ones and participated in a version of the Proust questionnaire where we decided out life motto’s (mine is “done is better than perfect” and to his not great surprise my husband learnt his is “happy wife happy life”). There was no Black Friday shopping in our house but I was almost completely undone by the new Sezane collaboration with Maria de la Orden, the end of my year long clothing pause in sight the only thing saving my bank account.
3 of my brothers arrived with associated family late Friday evening for Early Christmas™, including my new niece, and we settled in for a long weekend full of food, carols and cheer. We hit the market Saturday morning to get the last bits and bobs for our festive dinner before heading home to get fancy for a chaotic family photo session with Sur Seine Photo, juggling small children’s moods as we begged them to smile. Secret Santa gifts were exchanged and we all felt seen, each person receiving something they either enjoyed or needed.
Sunday was round two and we whipped up pancakes and bacon with lashings of good Canadian maple syrup (did you know you can keep it almost forever in the freezer?), alongside bowls of croissants from Maison Isabelle. After some early departures the rest of us went in search of strong coffee and to admire the Christmas trees in the area, enjoying the final moments together before we scatter again.
Noisette also decided to overindulge which meant a call to the emergency vet for reassurance followed by a long walk down by the Seine, past Notre-Dame which has reopened this week (open to the public from December 8th). We also stumbled on the Christmas market in Square Viviani and bought some extortionate hot chocolate to keep little hands warm. Then it was home to vegetable soup, leftovers and early to bed.
Have a great week,
- Emily
P.S. Thank you to all who signed up as paid subscribers this week, and as a result of your generosity over €400 has been donated to Les Restos du Coeur.
Cheese we’re eating this week:
Le Fermier à la Truffle du Perigord - a rich and creamy brie with ribbon of black truffle-studded cream. A special occasion cheese.
Époisses - an extremely fragrant cheese from Burgundy, made with pasteurised cow’s milk, which becomes so soft it can be served with a spoon.
Buchette Cendrée - a raw goat’s milk cheese with a light ash coating and a creamy, soft texture. It can be eaten while it’s quite soft or you can wait until it’s a little firmer.
All 3 cheeses were from Fromagerie Saint Vrain at Marché Maubert.
Parpatana
Years ago I went to a restaurant in Barcelona on a friend’s recommendation and ate parpatana (tuna collar) which I enjoyed so much I took my daughter back the next trip. It’s a cut of fish that doesn’t really exist in France so I’ve had no luck buying it to make at home until I recently started shopping at a different poissonnerie, where they hang enormous whole tuna in their cabinets. I mentioned in passing that I would love to buy the jaw the next time they get a whole fish in, and lo and behold 2 days later I was walking home with an unwieldy piece, fins and all. Unable to cut it to fit in a pan we roasted it in the oven and it was just as I remembered, umami rich, full of fat and flavour and falling off the bone.
I don’t really have a recipe for it but just recommend that you try and ask your fishmonger for it (but please don’t ask mine as I’m on to a good thing), or if you’re ever in Spain seek it out.
Bon appétit!
Real Life Paris Photo
Just a man and his Christmas Tree waiting for the bus.
I love love love your Christmas tree photos every year! I’m also a more-is-better person as far as lights and ornaments are concerned so your tree is perfectly to my taste. The purplish lights give it a special glow. Your children must be thrilled. Happy Happy Holidays!
Emily, Your tree is beautiful. I have a question about all the wonderful cheeses you mention. do your littles eat them? My kids would only eat Kraft slices when they were little. Now they eat all sorts of cheese.
The Tuna Collar looked amazing. My son in law is a chef on Martha's Vineyard. Last summer, when I was visiting, we went to a wonderful restaurant where the staff are his friends. They saw him at a table and brought out a tuna Collar for us. It was amazing.