When it’s hot in Paris the best thing to do is sit in a cold dark room with the shutters closed and the second best is to sit on a shady terrace with a cool drink. What did I do? Shepherded 26 small children to the Arènes de Lutèce for an end of year picnic, where after a few hours of repeating “we can eat in a minute” and slathering sunscreen onto tiny arms we finally cut our losses, soaked them with the hose and returned back to base weary and defeated.
Secret Paris
During the 6 years I’ve lived in Paris I’ve had the good fortune to discover some incredible secret passageways, tucked away courtyards, quiet corners and tiny boutiques. I’m always thrilled when someone shares a new address with me and I find a hidden gem that I’ve walked straight past countless times.
Any other end of school festivities were prudently cancelled due to the heatwave and we were asked to keep children home from school, so a week from the finishing line and while trying to get all my ducks in a row to both work and be a good parent during 8 weeks of holidays, my schedule was shaken like a snow globe leaving a smattering of “hey really sorry to do this but…” messages in its wake.
At the Picasso museum I dropped books to the gift shop before basking in the temperature controlled rooms (work smarter not harder), admiring works by Cezanne and Matisse from his personal collection for as long as possible before emerging back into the sunlight. Then I skipped around the corner for coffee at Rose Bakery in Dover Street Market on their shaded terrace, the perfect place to quietly recharge.
While waiting to take guests on a gluten free tour (probably my favourite, everyone is always so happy to be among their people) I ran into Zoe Petit who is the most cheerful guide you can find in Paris. If you’re coming with kids anytime soon she should be your first point of reference when trip planning.
On Saturday morning I carefully judged the weather and pulled on a flowing white dress (is anyone immune to broderie anglaise?) for it’s maiden voyage and made it as far as the metro before I was covered in an impressive smatter of coffee stains, but no-one at the flea market seemed to notice as I strolled the lanes, circling this painting again and again until I snagged it for €10.
My husband took the kids to see family on the weekend while I stayed in town for work commitments, which meant I had almost 24 hours to myself. I half heartedly reached out to friends, mainly so I could feel completely at peace when they were busy and stay home safe in the knowledge I was only a hermit by circumstance, and spent almost the whole time listening to the rain as I read and pottered in silence with a hot cup of coffee and Noisette by my feet.
Have a great week,
- Emily
Cheese we’re eating this week:
Caprice des Dieux - which means "Whim of the Gods" is a soft-ripened cow’s milk cheese made from pasteurized milk.
Burrata - an Italian cow’s milk cheese, it has an outer layer of mozzarella and is stuffed with stracciatella and cream.
Feta - a tangy, brined sheep’s milk cheese from Greece that’s perfect to crumble into salads or bake in the oven.
All three cheeses were from the local supermarket.
Feta, Watermelon and Mint Salad
The classic trio - never fails.
Feta
Watermelon
Mint
Olive oil
Pinch of salt
Lime juice (optional)
Chop everything and lay artistically in a bowl, then drizzle with olive oil, a squeeze of lime juice and a sprinkle of salt.
Bon appétit!
Real Life Paris Photo
Teddy bear taxi.
Regarding the taxi photo: they’re on their way to a picnic….because, teddy bears!
Those look like Costco bears